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Planning a Wine Tasting Function

What event planners need to know when planning a wine-tasting function

By Anita Issen Mizner

Isn't it incredible how wine and spirits tastings have become such a popular form of entertainment for wine lovers, collectors, professionals, business execs, even MBAs in the making? And hasn't this formerly male-dominated avocation yielded to an unprecedented surge of interest by femme counterparts? They're all tuned into the fact that what you know about wine and spirits says something about who you are. And what you choose to drink yourself and serve others is a crystal-clear statement of personal taste, of savoir faire—an invaluable asset vis-a-vis the many worlds in which we interact.

A special draw vis-a-vis wine courses and tastings is the sensual intrigue of wine itself. Learning to appreciate wine, we instinctively tune up four of our five senses. And sparklers add a fifth, a seductive audible element: when we listen in anticipatory pleasure to the gurgling bubbly being poured, then clink glasses in a toast.

Sight

Color is the first thing to look for in wine. It tells something about its age. Whites run the gamut from greenish straw tones (young) through sunshine to burnished gold (older). Reds can range from a light raspberry color through richer ruby and plummy shades to tawny-rose in fragile old wines. But the color shouldn't be murky, unless it's aged Port with some sediment.

Smell

We swirl to introduce air—the better to sense different aromas as we "nose" the wine. A wine's aromas are the key to its heart and soul. They can convey a tantalizing array of wild and cultivated botanicals, fruit, flowers, berries, new-mown hay, tobacco, yeast, minerals, evergreens, tea, caramel, earth, salty ocean air, and so much more. Your nose will soon recognize distinctive aromas. It's important to jot down first impressions.

If you're not getting components right, take a break and sniff something neutral, like the back of your hand. Take care if you're hit with off-smells: acetone (usually corkiness), oxidation (browning in whites and reds often means they're oxidized), vinegar (souring), putrid eggs, cheap plonk.

Taste and Texture

Tasting wine is more than just sipping and swallowing. After smelling the wine, you take a sip of wine, roll it around your palate, then sniff again via the nasal passages connecting to the throat, to experience aromas and flavors together. The sense of touch comes in to play when you judge the texture of the wine. Is it unappealingly thin, with lots to be humble about? Is it gossamer, wafting silkily over the tastebuds? Is it somewhat weightier, vibrant, edgy? Is it satiny, deeply complex, with firm backbone and staying power?

Tasting ABC's

When it comes to orchestrating tastings, small is beautiful. My own favorites are sitdown tastings: the intime type. Well planned sit-down tastings for a group of 25 to 50 people also work well. Having a savvy professional conduct the tasting is a must, unless you or a colleague can fill the role confidently.

As fund-raisers, stand-up tastings for a cast of hundreds are popular, too, although most come under the heading of social entertainment. For such events, it's probably best to work with wholesalers known for a large, diverse portfolio, especially those who have PR directors and wine consultants on staff.

At sit-down tastings, if guests are new to the wine tasting scene, it's a good idea to place at each setting a glossary of tasting terms and label language, along with all-important tasting sheets. (See Box). After the tasting, you can distribute backgrounders describing the wine, grape(s), and other production details. (Most distributors can provide fact sheets for their wines which you can photocopy.) Foreign government wine trade associations have excellent source materials, too.

According to British wine authority, Michael Broadbent, "Only two kinds of person can do without tasting notes: the rare and fortunate individual with a phenomenally freak memory, and the less rare type who chooses not to complicate matters by ever tasting more than the firm favorites he knows and likes."

(A case in point: During a Smith & Wolensky Restaurant Group Wine Week luncheon—this one at Cité, where food and service were extraordinary, the ambiance upbeat, and the array of wines an exciting experience—I asked patrons at the next table which wines they liked best, and a self-appointed spokesman stated, " We only drink merlot!") I rest my case.

Tasting sheets need not be complicated. In Broadbent's view, any system (for tasting sheets) is adequate that provides sufficient information in a quick, accessible manner for an individual's purpose. What you should list is:

• Event and date of tasting.
• Name of each wine/district/vineyard/ vintage year/producer/price per bottle (in order of tasting).

This information should be followed by wine descriptives (leave at least two lines for responses between each):

• Appearance (color, depth, clarity):
• Nose (aromatic elements, bouquet):
• Taste/Texture (flavor elements, complexity, mouth-feel, balance, finish, special qualities)
• General conclusion (maturity, quality, value, impressions):

Broadbent adds that one shouldn't overdo things with descriptive terminology. Tasting pros note only outstanding and meaningful characteristics and exceptions to the rules. (Remember nobody knows everything about wine. Each palate is different.)

Themes

One exemplary professional tasting I'll always remember was held at Windows on the World, arranged by Robin Kelly O'Connor, U.S. liaison for Bordeaux Wines, with British critic, Clive Coates, conducting the tasting. It featured same-vintage first and second label Bordeaux reds from a handful of notable chateaux in key districts (i.e., Margaux, Pauillac, St. Emilion, etc.).
Such a tasting is always rewarding, especially in a fine, bountiful vintage, say, 1990 or 1995. That's when second label Bordeaux have greater value than usual, since overproduction of first label wine—that is any quantity beyond the legal limit for first label wines—goes into second label bottlings. First label Bordeaux can only be produced from grapevines over ten years old; second label wines, made from younger vines, benefit from this enrichment. It's fascinating to taste the similarities and differences.
Other themes to consider:

• Horizontal Tasting (one specific vintage): wines of a selected varietal produced in one region (i.e., sauvignon blanc, riesling, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah or shiraz, zinfandel, chianti classico, barbera, Spain's alberino or amontillado sherry, 1994 LBV (Late Bottled Vintage) or l0-year-old Tawny port.
  
  
• One Wine, Three Styles (dry, semi-dry and sweet) from the same grape or grapes, in the same area (i.e., German riesling, vouvray, sherry). With German rieslings, you can alternate the focus to compare rieslings (of the same vintage and style), from different regions, i.e., Rheingau, Rheinhessen, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer.
  
  
• One Grape Blend, Three Styles: (lighter...fruitier, more complex, longer-lived...rich, full-bodied, supple, exceptionally long lived—all from the same grape blend. For this, Rhone wines can fill the bill. Or this Veneto trio (a striking comparison): Valpolicella Classico; Ripasso-method Valpolicella (the wine refermented on the lees of fine Amarone) and Amarone Classico.
  
  I recommend focusing on three producers (nine wines in all) with wines from a specific vintage, if possible, such as 1995: Masi (Remy Amerique), Bertani (Palm Bay Imports), and Allegrini (Winebow). Other fine producers of the three styles are Paolo Boscaini (Dreyfus Ashby), Acinum (Vias) and Zenato (Winebow). Some noted houses, Bolla (Brown-Forman) for instance, produce topnotch valpolicella and amarone but no ripasso-method.
  
  When you come down to it, you can feature two of these styles from four producers. But ripasso should be one of them. Ripasso-method proprietary names are: Masi Campofiorin, Bertani Secco Valpolicella Valpantena, Allegrini Palazzo della Torre, Boscaini Santo Stefano, Acinum Ripasso, Zenato Ripassa.
  
  If the same vintages aren't available for all the wines, the alternative is to obtain the same vintage for each of the three different styles. However, Bertani is known for giving their gorgeous amarones traditional aging, much longer than other houses. (Currently you'll find the 1990 Amarone Classico, and, soon, the 1993.) This means you'll have to try to get same-vintage amarones made by the other two houses or settle for the oldest available (with an explanation to tasters).
  
  
• If it's to be a stand-up tasting, then think Beaujolais in all its permutations and crus. Just perfect! In spring, Georges Duboeuf introduces the latest vintage with a stand-up tasting of his Beaujolais/Burgundy whites and reds, from Beaujolais and
  Beaujolais Villages to the special village crus, which include single estate, barrique-aged beauties. Usually three wines (from contiguous regions) are presented on separate, small restaurant tables rather than one long table. The difference between wines from each village cru—and particularly those given special aging—is amazing. And while the tasting has a serious motif, it adds up to a fun adventure every time. And, it's one that's eminently affordable, even at retail prices. (1997 was a very good year.)
  
  You can vary this theme, presenting three different producers' wines at each table, focused on 1997 reds from Beaujolais Villages and selection of crus: Chenas, Regnie, Brouilly, Cote de Brouilly, Chiroubles, Morgon, Julienas, Fleuri, St. Amour, Moulin a Vent. In addition to Georges DuBoeuf's incredible roster (Wm. Deutsch & Sons/Pinnacle Wines), others with a range of quality Beaujolais include Louis Jadot (Kobrand Corp.), Robert Sarrau (Peerless), Olivier Ravier Signe (Paramount/Eber Bros.), and Kermit Lynch Selections (Winebow).

Tasting Guidelines

Budget and Quantities
Figure the cost per bottle (or case) and amount of wine you'll need for the number of guests expected. The norm is l.5 ounces per portion which gives you about 17 servings per 750 ml bottle). Check out prices charged for similar tastings, and have a cut-off date after which money can't be refunded. Follow-up calls are essential to double-check potential attendance. People in this area are notorious no-shows.

Table Setting for Sit-down Tastings
White cloths are a must to examine true color and clarity of wines. (Easier to bleach out wine stains, too.) Each setting should have quality stemware that is the right shape for the wines being tasted or a fine all-purpose tulip glass, which confines the wine's aromas and the wine as you tip the glass to observe the color against the white cloth, then swirl it about.
Even more important, glassware must be sparkling clean, absolutely free of detergent residue and dust. Ideally they should be rinsed twice and dried in a dishwasher. Glasses should be placed on the obligatory rectangular paper sheets with numbered circles indicating the tasting order of wines. (You can make your own using the base of stemware to make outlines on l or 2 master sheets, numbering them, then making as many copies as you need.
Each taster should have a small spitting cup (paper or opaque plastic is fine) with a larger spit bucket or urn in the center of the table for emptying cups. (You simply cannot swallow wines in a tasting because you would soon feel the effects.) Tasters need water glasses and plenty of water. It makes sense to drink frequently, especially if you forget and swallow the wine. Unflavored crackers (Carr's Water Crackers are good bland choices) and/or slices of fresh baguettes are necessary to have on hand to refresh the palate. Don't forget napkins and tasting sheets, mentioned above, and pencils. Fact sheets and guidelines to wine terms (for those new to tastings) are a decided plus.

Wine Terms

Acid: One of 4 tastes of wine. Also described as sour/tart/tangy. Crisp defines refreshing, dry acidity.

Appellation: Geographical designation of origin.

Aroma/Bouquet/Nose: The smell of wine. (Use aroma or for younger wines; bouquet, for older.)

Balance: Smooth interplay of components: acidity balances sweetness; fruit: tannins and oak; alcohol: acidity and flavors

Blanc de Blancs/Blanc de Noirs: White wine from white grapes; white wine from red grapes.

Body: Perceived weight of wine on the palate: light/medium/full.

Botrytis/Noble Rot: A mold which attacks grapes in moist conditions, shriveling them and concentrating sugar and acidity.

Carbonic Maceration: Fermentation of whole rather than crushed grapes, to produce light-to-medium weight fruity wines.

Cepage: French for vine variety.

Chewy: A rich, weighty, complex wine with firm tannins.

Citrusy: Wine (usually white) accented with various citrus fruit flavors.

Complexity/Depth: Intriguing elements of flavor and supple, yet firm, balance. Usually found in fine, quality wines.

Cru: Vineyard. Or growth. Invariably one of special quality.

Cuvée: A blend of wines, usually sparkling.

Dry/Fruity: Not sweet/not dry, with fruity aromas and flavors. (Fruity doesn't necessarily imply sweetness.)

Earthy: Clean earth scents. Sometimes, unpleasantly barnyardy.

Finish/Aftertaste: Extended complex flavor impression left on the
palate after swallowing. In fine wines, it should be lengthy.

Flavor intensity: Refers to strength or weakness in the flavors.

Glycerine: Usually found in higher alcohol and late-harvest wines, giving them a satiny mouth-feel.

Herbaceous/Vegetal: Aromas/flavors invoking herbs or vegetables.

Malolactic Fermentation: Secondary fermentation permitted to take place in some whites and most reds. Converts sharp malic acid into softer lactic acid. Gives wine a soft roundness.

Meritage: Top drawer Bordeaux-style blends from California.

Racking: Traditional method of clarifying wine by transferring it gently from one container to another, without the lees.

Simple: Noncomplex. Little or no character or flavor elements.
Soft: Wine that's gentle, smooth. Not crisp.

Tannin: A dry, puckery substance in reds, some whites, and in tea. In wine, it comes from grape skins and seeds (also oak casks). Tannin reins in oxidation; determines structure.

Tartaric Acid: A major natural acid of grapes.

Varietal character: How aromas and palate impressions reflect typicity of a specific grape variety.

Vitis Vinifera: The grapevine genus of grapes that make most renowned wines; cabernets sauvignon and franc, pinot noir, riesling, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, syrah, sangiovese, etc.

Beaujolais Tastings: A Great Way to Start

By Pamela Harding

Every year the harvest season kicks off to unbridled enthusiasm with the release of the Beaujolais nouveau on the celebrated third Wednesday of November. While the annual ritual of pouring the new wine is festive and fun, Beaujolais offers a much broader spectrum of wines—twelve different appellation, in fact—that easily lend themselves to sampling at tasting events. Wines of the region are very accessible in terms of both buying and drinking. They are easy to get, easy to drink, and widely enjoyed.

Beaujolais tastings can be done in a number of ways: choose several bottlings of the same vintage year from one producer (a Beaujolais-Village, for instance, and several of the Crus, say, a Fleurie, St. Amour, Régnié, and Morgon from the renown Georges Duboeuf) or, select bottlings of the same type (all Beaujolais-Villages or all Fleurie) from different producers.

For the best flavor, Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages should be drunk cool: between 50 and 54 degrees F. is ideal. The sturdier Crus, especially the ones that can age well (Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent) are best served just a bit warmer, but never above 62 degrees F.

Following is a brief guide to the various Beaujolais appellation. Although there is a white Beaujolais (blanc), most of the wine produced in the region is red and it's interesting to compare the reds with one another. Essentially, Beaujolais is categorized into three types: Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Village, and the ten Cru.

Beaujolais: represents 50 percent of the production, about half of which is used for the Nouveau. Floral, fruity and lively, they are easy drinking wines, year 'round, with food or on their own.

Beaujolais-Villages: accounts for a quarter of the entire production of the region. The wine is produced in 39 different villages and tends to be richer and deeper in flavor than the Beaujolais. Aromas of blackcurrant and strawberry come to mind. A pleasant accompaniment to most foods.

The Crus: The ten Crus represent about a quarter of the total Beaujolais. Most benefit from a little aging. Here they are, in order from the lightest to the most robust:

Chiroubles: From the region's highest vineyards, they are often described as refined and fruity in style, with floral aromas of violets and lily of the valley. Complement poultry, cold meats, hors d'oeuvre.

Brouilly: Largest of the Beaujolais Crus, these ruby-colored wines are fruity and full-bodied, often with slightly minerally aromas. Nice with poultry, game birds, even red meat.

Saint Amour: From the northernmost Crus vineyards, they are vivid in color with a bit of cherry and spice on the nose. Delicate, light and harmonious, they are ready to drink within a year, but keep well for two or three. A coveted Valentine's Day wine because of the name. Good with poultry and game.

Régnié: The newest Beaujolais Cru (1988), it's ruby hued and generally exhibits aromas of red currants and raspberries. The wines tend to be supple and well-structured. Nice with patés, hors d'oeuvre.

Côte de Brouilly: Planted on the volcanic slopes of "Le Mont Brouilly," the wines exhibit characteristic aromas of violets and fresh grapes. They tend to be violet in color too, and become more elegant after a couple of years in the bottle. Perfect with cold meats.

Fleurie: Generally described as the most feminine of all the Beaujolais Crus, the characteristic wine is sophisticated with deep garnet color and fresh floral notes. Smooth, velvety, and elegant. Good with lamb, poultry.

Juliénas: The Beaujolais of choice in Paris bistros, it's a lively wine that can be enjoyed young or after several years' aging. Generally has rich aromas of cherries, strawberries and peaches. A good accompaniment to game birds and poultry.

Chénas: Dark and full-bodied, it's the rarest of the Beaujolais Crus. Reputedly the favorite wine of Louis XIII, it exhibits floral and woody aromas and ages well for several years. Good with meat dishes, cheeses.

Morgon: One of the meatiest and most robust of the Crus, with intense garnet color and aromas of ripe cherries, peaches, apricots, and plums. Achieves full potential after several years' aging. Ideal with game and meat dishes.

Moulin à Vent: Described as the most regal of the Crus, it takes its name from a windmill which rises above the vineyards. Deep, ruby-colored and well-structured, the wine often exhibits full flavors of ripe fruit and deep floral notes with spicy overtones. Ages well for several years, even up to about 7. Perfect with red meat, game, and strong cheeses.